A rare catalogue raisonné of Bhanu Athaiya’s fine art and formative years at the J.J. School of Art—spotlighting the only woman in the Progressive Artists’ Group, who redefined her artistic journey through costume design and became India’s first Oscar winner.
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Prinseps, in collaboration with Dhoomimal Gallery, presented F.N. Souza: A Continuum—a landmark exhibition marking the centenary year of Francis Newton Souza. Opening on March 25, 2025, in New Delhi, the exhibition invited viewers to look beyond the myth and into the inner world of one of India’s most influential modernists.
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As we trace Bhanu Athaiya’s creative journey back to her roots in Kolhapur, we uncover a fascinating commonality between her, M.V. Dhurandhar, and John Lockwood Kipling. All three artists celebrated the essence of Indian life and craftsmanship, particularly through their depictions of fakirs and artisans.
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This research originates from an insightful question-and-answer session with Keren SouzaKohn, the daughter of Francis Newton Souza. Set against the backdrop of the red earth roads, lush green paddy fields, and winding lanes of Saligao, Goa—Souza's birthplace—our conversation unveiled fascinating possibilities. What began as a simple dialogue soon transformed into a path-breaking interview, shedding new light on the art of F.N. Souza and the influences that shaped his work.
Read MoreIn an exclusive interview, Keren SouzaKohn delves into her unique upbringing under the shadow of her father, the legendary artist F.N. Souza. Growing up in a household steeped in art and creativity, Keren shares her early experiences, the profound influence of her father, and the eclectic mix of creative influences that shaped her artistic perspective.
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SouzaKohn, daughter of the legendary Indian artist Francis Newton Souza, is a distinguished artist in her own right. Her evocative paintings capture everyday objects and familiar environments, transforming them into dynamic compositions filled with passion and vigor. Born in London, Keren completed her foundation course at Hornsey College of Art and earned a BA (Hons) in Fine Art from Ravensbourne College of Art. Her extensive career includes numerous solo exhibitions, with a recent focus on her work with oils.
Read MoreIndia’s first Oscar winner, Bhanu Athaiya was born in Kolhapur, Maharashtra, in the year 1929. Bhanu came to Mumbai as a teenager to learn painting at the JJ School of Arts. She went on to become the only woman to be invited to and join the Progressive Artists’ Group and the first woman to win the prestigious Usha Deshmukh Gold Medal in 1951 for the artwork titled 'Lady In Repose'.
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Prinseps presents the Gobardhan Ash Retrospective (1929 - 1969) at the Kolkata Centre for Creativity—a captivating journey into the profound artistic legacy of Gobardhan Ash, a luminary of Indian modern art. From March 29th to April 21st, visitors are invited to explore this exhibition, which offers a comprehensive examination of Ash's pioneering contributions to the artistic landscape. Spanning four decades, it provides a glimpse into the creative genius that defined his remarkable career. Click here for a virtual tour of the exhibition.
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Bhanu's Stunning Designs For The First Calico Fashion Show Of 1958 Fashion is a vibrant and ever-evolving art form that reflects the spirit of an era. In the annals of Indian fashion history, one event stands out as a pivotal moment in time – the first Calico fashion show of 1958. In 1958, Bhanu Athaiya was invited by Ebrahim Alkazi to design the first traveling promotional fashion show in independent India for Calico Mills. This event took place at the "India '58" Trade Fair in New Delhi, making it a pivotal moment in Indian fashion history.
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Bhanu Athaiya's life story is a testament to the power of talent, determination, and passion. Born in Kolhapur, India, in 1929, Bhanu's artistic journey was shaped by her father Annasaheb Rajopadhye, an amateur artist who introduced her to the world of art. Kolhapur, a significant artistic center in the early 20th century, was a hotbed of creativity and social upheaval, with the local king actively promoting artisans. This environment exposed Bhanu to the likes of Abalal Rahiman, Dhurandhar, and Baburao Painter, who were prominent figures in the artistic circle of Kolhapur. Of particular note, Baburao Painter was a multifaceted artist who made significant contributions to both painting and filmmaking in India.
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Ram Kumar’s existence in the art world was much like a peaceful mountain, exuding a sense of serenity and enduring presence. The reticent artist wielded both the pen and brush but ultimately embraced the latter as his mightier sword of choice. Born in 1924 in Shimla, Kumar’s meditative surroundings deeply affected his sensibilities as an artist. He imbibed a sense of calm from the silent mountains and the clear blue skies that found expression in his paintings. His affinity with nature, the serene flow of slow-seeping rivers, the allure of solitary spaces, and the haunting charm of abandoned structures would all combine to establish him as the foremost significant abstract painter in the Modern Indian art world.
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As we prepare for the exhibitions of Gobardhan Ash and Rathin Maitra, we have realised that the context and continuum of the modernist movement around the 1940s are somehow forgotten. We strive to bring them to light with the hope of more research and discussions. (Refer here) This write-up focuses on Calcutta and Bombay.
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At Prinseps, we are working to change the discourse to redefine the critical period for modernism in India as the first half of the 20th century. Though academia reiterates the same, the art trade seems to have strayed with a focus on the later part of the 20th century. The early 20th century witnessed the uprising of major art movements questioning the status quo.
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I sit staring into the blank canvas. My mind is unfettered, reaching out to embrace the world. All these shapes and scenes flit lucidly through my head, some familiar, others, I know not. Speaking of Modern Art, I must emphasise the fact that the art being created these days, cannot simply be labeled as Indian Art.
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Bhanu Athaiya won India its first Oscar in 1983 for the film Gandhi in the Best Costume Design category. As a child, Bhanu Athaiya was surrounded by the growing surge of Indian consciousness and the influence of Gandhi. People had taken to wearing khadi clothes and Gandhi caps. This first-hand influence of Gandhi in her life was something she could not have developed with any amount of reading or research. Richard Attenborough, a foreign film director, came to India to make a film on Gandhi after 17 years of visiting the country repeatedly. He appointed Bhanu as the film's costume designer.
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Rathin Maitra and Subho Tagore established the Calcutta Group, along with other founder members, which gained widespread recognition in India for its influential contribution to modern Indian painting much before the Progressives.
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Following the opening of The Legacy of Bhanu Athaiya exhibit was an insightful discussion between stalwarts Ritu Kumar (Textile Historian and Fashion Designer) and Kiran Nadar (Founder and Chairperson KNMA). H.H. MAHARANI Radhika Raje Gaekwad of Baroda inaugurated the event and fondly spoke of her learnings while documenting and intensively researching the legacy of India's most globally renowned costume designer Bhanu Rajopadhye Athaiya. Click here to watch the video.
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Actor Tanuja narrates Bhanu Athaiya's transition from art to Indian cinema while carrying her love for art on her sleeve. Lovingly addressed by Bhanu as 'Tanu', the actor reminisces about Bhanu's eagerness to delve into the actor's role before designing her costumes.
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In these personal notes by Bhanu Athaiya, she fondly recalls her mother Shantabai with deep gratitude, love, and pride. She deems her mother the enabler of her success, dreams, and aspirations. Read on to know more.
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Bhanu Rajopadhye Athaiya (b. 1929) was born in her 300-year-old sprawling ancestral house in the heart of Kolhapur. Bhanu grew up surrounded by indigenous and western political, social and cultural influences. Her ability to translate all this information into the medium of cinema and art made her the first Indian ever to win an Oscar. Bhanu Athaiya is not only recognised as the revered doyenne of Indian costume designers; but also a remarkable modernist artist.
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