An intensive documentation and study of the personal textile collection of Bollywood's most iconic costume designer, Bhanu Rajopadhye Athaiya.
Paithani Saree
Material: Cotton, Silver zari (gold plated + 5% gold content)
Dimensions: Length: 270 cm (106.2") Width: 124 cm (49") Weave: Paithani, Paithan, Maharashtra
Design: with handwoven Akruti border frame on pallu with plain gold filling (panja baro/scorpio are other local names for motif design)
Technique: Handwoven
Occasion/Purpose: Paithani Shela for women
Circa: 1850-1900
Remarks: A traditional Paithani Shela for women. Khawle Kath/Narli Kath or coconut border
Paithani Shela
Material: Cotton, Silver zari (gold plated+approx 5% gold content)
Dimensions: Length: 152 cm (60") Width: 322 cm (125")
Weave: Paithani, Paithan, Maharashtra
Design: Khawle Kath/ Narli Kath or coconut border with jacquard assisted jaal with butti pattern. Akruti frame with zari filling pallu on both sides
Technique: Handloom with jacquard
Occasion/Purpose: For Royal family men/women. Shela draped as one side on the shoulder and rest following all the way to floor from the front
Circa: 1880-1890
Remarks: 60" wider shelas were typically made for men from royal/higher families, the length of which often lasted up to 4 yards. Draped as running from one shoulder to the floor. They were rich and overfilled with zari. Women did use wider shelas but Maharashtrian royal women preferred their shela draped on both shoulders. This Shela, instead of using standard heavy butti configuration, is created with jacquard assisted jaal indicating it was for the higher status owners or special occasions.
Chandrakala Paithani Saree
Material: Cotton, Silver Zari (gold plated + 5% gold content)
Dimensions: Length: 848 cm (333.8") Width: 125 cm (49")
Weave: Paithani, Paithan, Maharashtra
Design: Khawle Kath/ Narli Kath or coconut border hand weaved all over rupiya butti, jaal pattern above pallu and akruti frame with zari filling pallu.
Technique: Handwoven
Occasion/Purpose: Bridal 9 yard saree
Circa: 1880-90
Remarks: Chandrakala often referred to as Kali Chandrakala (black paithani with heavy butti all over 9 yards), is a special saree of Makar Sankranti, a unique day when the black drape is acceptable. A misconception is common where Chandrakala has to be black. Navy blue or midnight blue is thus a perfect replacement. The Chandrakala is in deep navy blue color giving a realistic sense of night sky filled with shining stars. A fabric is added on the upper tucking side to indicate that the person wearing it was taller than usual and needed extra width.
Paithani Saree
Material: Cotton, Silver zari (gold plated + approx 5% gold content)
Dimensions: Length: 610 cm (240.1") Width: 80 cm (32")
Weave: Paithani, Paith Kath, Maharas Kath
Design: Khawle Kath/Narli Kath or coconut border with jacquard flower border frame on pallu with plain gold filling
Technique: Jacquard woven handloom
Occasion/Purpose: Bridal Saree custom made
Circa: 1880-1890
Remarks: Given width 32" and length 6.6 yards, this appears to a saree for a young girl/bride (1-13 years of age) draped as Nauvari. Sarees of shorter width are commonly made for goddess Tuljapur, Shree Bhavani, Mahalaxmi of Kolhapur but are often 9-14 yards in length.
Banaras Saree
Material: Natural Silk, Silver Zari (gold plated)
Dimensions: Length: 824 cm (324.4") Width: 126 cm (48")
Weave: Banarasi, Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh
Design: Gold band cross line pattern and filled frame pallu with closely spaced butta.
Technique: Jacquard woven handloom
Occasion/Purpose: Bridal Saree
Circa: 1900
Remarks: A traditional Banarasi referred to as shalu in Marathi.
Banarasi Dhoti
Material: Silk with pure zari
Dimensions: Length: 480 cm (188.9") Width: 104 cm (40.9")
Weave: Probably Banarasi, Banaras, Uttar Pradesh
Design: Silk field in plain weave with gold zari border running lengthwise on both sides. Shikargah scenes of wildlife
Technique: Handwoven/Handloom
Occasion/Purpose: Men’s dhoti worn on religious and ceremonial occasions.
Circa: 1900s
Remarks: Janglabuti (woodland motif) consisting floral patterns with birds (peacock) and animal (elephant, lion, deer) motifs. On the inner edge of the border, small keri or mango motifs are seen known as jhalar or kangur
Silk Dhoti
Material: Silk with pure zari
Dimensions: Length: 472 cm (185.8") Width: 120 cm (47.2")
Weave: Paithani, Paithan/Yeola (Maharashtra)
Design: Plain field with Khawale Kath or Narli Kath the border is completed by karvati kinar towards the field
Technique: Handwoven/Handloom
Occasion/Purpose: Men’s dhoti worn on religious and ceremonial occasions.
Circa: 1900s
Remarks: This border is typically seen in Paithani sarees also.
Banarasi Silk Saree
Material: Mulberry Silk and pure zari
Dimensions: Length: 760 cm (299.2") Width: 121 cm (47.6")
Weave: Banaras, Varanasi Uttar Pradesh
Design: Traditional delicate jaal border with small buttis densely placed, kairi or paisley in pallu and lagadi patta border.
Technique: Handwoven with Jacquard
Occasion/Purpose: Silk 9 yards ceremonial saree
Circa: 1900s
Remarks: Banarasi butidar silk saree comes under the category of pothans or baftas. Border- phulwar or floral scroll edged with a jhalar. Pallav is in solid pure gold with a cross border of keri (mango) motif arranged in a straight line (patewal). Also seen is a band with Karan Phool (8 petalled flower. In the two inner corners is seen an ornate mango motif ( koniya paisley motif). Probably from this saree Bhanu Athaiya replicated the two pink sarees Banarasi sarees in the 1900s. One of which was worn by her daughter Radhika Gupta in her wedding ceremony.
Kunchi
Material: Silk brocade/Kinkhab with pure zari and silk lining
Dimensions: Height: 67 cm (26.3") Waist: 43 cm (16.9")
Weave: Probably Surat, Gujarat
Design: Ornate floral motifs with broad silk pipping and thread tassels overhead.
Technique: Jacquard hand weave
Occasion/Purpose: Christening Rob
Circa: 1900s
Remarks: The kunchi was worn by the baby in the Maharashtrian custom Barsa or naming ceremony, usually conducted on the 12th day of birth. Kinkhab in gold (Kinkhab are a thicker variety of brocades with all-over patterns used for dress materials, jackets, blouses, etc.) Could be woven in Surat the border seems to be silk satin weave again seen mainly produced in Gujarat.
Banarasi Saree
Material: Fine cotton with pure zari
Dimensions: Length: 832 cm (327.5") Width: 140 cm (55.1")
Weave: Banarasi, Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh
Design: Floral with minakari weave and matching buttas
Technique: Handwoven with Jacquard
Occasion/Purpose: Formal 9 yards saree
Circa: 1920s-1930
Remarks: This saree is seen on Bhanu Athaiya as a young girl in the 1930s and then on her mother in 1955 at Athaiya’s daughter, Radhika’s wedding.
Paithani Saree
Material: Cotton, Silver Zari (gold plated + 5% gold content)
Dimensions: Length: 816 cm (321.2") Width: 120 cm (47.2")
Weave: Paithani/Yeola, Maharashtra
Design: Khawle Kath/Narli Kath or coconut border, karwarti kinar with jacquard-assisted flower frame with zari filling pallu.
Technique: Handwoven
Occasion/Purpose: Saree
Circa: 1925-35
Remarks: Jacquards with Banaras punch cards became popular in 1920 onwards and Yeola was the main centre for such fusion Paithani sarees where handwoven and jacquard assisted motifs added another dimension of richness to typical coconut border paithanis. Saree weaved without butti indicated that either it was economic selection or saree for elderly women.
Paithani Saree
Material: Silk, Silver Zari (gold plated + 5% gold content)
Dimensions: Length: 124 cm (49") Width: 816 cm (321.2")
Weave: Paithani /Yeola, Maharashtra
Design: Khawle Kath/Narli Kath or coconut border, karwati kinar with jacquard assisted paisley butti, large paisley above pallu, and jaal pattern. Flower frame with zari filling pallu.
Technique: Handwoven with jacquard
Occasion/Purpose: Bridal saree
Circa: 1925-35
Remarks: Probably custom-made jacquards with Banaras punched cards that became popular in 1920. Yeola was the main centre for such fusion. Paithani sarees, hand-woven and jacquard assisted motifs added another dimension of richness to typical coconut border paithanis. A combination of different bases (self wrap x weft) under zari paisley, heavy butti, and silk indicates that the saree was probably made for a higher family or sold at a premium. A similar known saree was priced around Rupees 105.00 in 1933.
Banaras Shela/Odhna
Material: Natural Silk, Silver Zari
Dimensions: Length: 384 cm (150") Width: 10.55 cm (40")
Weave: Banarasi, Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh
Design: Gold band and flower border with cross patterns all over the body. Paisleys in the corner.
Technique: Jacquard woven handloom
Occasion/Purpose: Bridal Shela/Odhna
Circa: 1930
Remarks: Item (1) and was probably made on the same loom at the same time, and its pallu ends were cut later or ordered as fabric.
Banaras Shela/Odhana /Fabric Piece
Material: Natural Silk, Silver ZariDimensions: Length: 316 cm (125") Width: 105.5 cm (40")
Weave: Banarasi, Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh
Design: Gold band and flower border with cross patterns all over the body
Technique: Jacquard woven handloom
Occasion/Purpose: Bridal Shela/Odhna
Circa: 1930
Remarks: Appears to be cut from the saree as there is an absence of end panels of the typical shela.
South Silk Saree
Material: Silk, Silver, and Gold zari (gold plated + 5% gold content)
Dimensions: Length: 130 cm (51.1") Width: 780 cm (307")
Weave: Probably Tamil Nadu
Design: Traditional flower Vine Border in gold and silver zari pallu and Koniya paisley motif with thin horizontal lines in the body.
Technique: Handloom
Occasion/Purpose: Silk 9 yards saree
Circa: 1900-1940 (the 1940s)
Remarks: A traditional south silk saree
South Silk Saree
Material: Silk, Silver zari (gold plated)
Dimensions: Length: 108 cm (48") Width: 508 cm (200")
Weave: Probably Tamil Nadu
Design: Traditional flower vine border in gold and zari plain pallu without butti body.
Technique: Handloom
Occasion/Purpose: Light 6 yards saree
Circa: 1900-1940 (the 1940s)
Remarks: A traditional lightweight cotton silk south saree.
South Silk Saree
Material: Natural Silk, Silver Zari
Dimensions: Length: 134 cm (50") Width: 772 cm (303.9")
Weave: Probably Tamil Nadu
Design: Gold band and flower border with the standard plain pallu
Technique: Woven handloom
Occasion/Purpose: Light 9-yard saree
Circa: 1920-1945
Remarks: A traditional lightweight silk south saree.
South Silk Saree
Material: Natural Silk, Silver Zari
Dimensions: Length: 114 cm (45") Width: 800 cm (314.9")
Weave: Probably Tamil Nadu
Design: Gold band and flower border with the standard plain pallu
Technique: Woven handloom
Occasion/Purpose: Light 9 yards saree
Circa: 1920-1945
Remarks: A lightweight silk saree.
Paithani Pitambar
Material: Silk, Silver Zari (gold plated + 5% gold content)
Dimensions: Length: 117 cm (34") Width: 468 cm (184.2")
Weave: Paithani, Yeola, Maharastra
Design: Khawle Kath/Narli Kath or coconut border with karwati kinar
Technique: Handloom/Handwoven
Occasion/Purpose: Men’s pitambar, (Dhoti for religious ritual)
Circa: 1920-1965 (Given this is silk, it is probably the 1950s)
Remarks: Men use pitambar (a turmeric yellow or orange color waist cloth), a special dhoti while performing rituals. Pitambar and Uparana (small shela draped over shoulders) are considered a must-have attire while performing any ritual. This is still practiced in most Brahmin families and other orthodox and Hindu families.
Banarasi Silk Saree
Material: Silk with pure zari
Dimensions: Length: 552 cm (217.3") Width: 122 cm (48")
Weave: Banarasi, Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh
Design: Handwoven with Jacquard
Technique: Traditional delicate jaal border with small buttis densely placed, kairi or paisley in pallu and lagadi patta border
Occasion/Purpose: Silk 9 yards ceremonial saree
Circa: 1950s
Remarks: Replicated from Item (17) for Bhanu Athaiya’s daughter Radhika Gupta’s wedding.
Banarasi Silk Saree
Material: Silk with pure zari
Dimensions: Length: 592 cm (233") Width: 121 cm (47.6")
Weave: Banarasi, Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh
Design: Traditional delicate jaal border with small buttis densely placed, kairi or paisley in pallu and lagadi patta border
Technique: Handwoven with Jacquard
Occasion/Purpose: Silk 9 yards ceremonial saree
Circa: 1950s
Remarks: Replicated from Item (17) for Bhanu Athaiya’s daughter Radhika Gupta’s wedding
Costume
Material: Silk with artificial zari
Dimensions: Skirt - Height: 94 cm (37") Waist: 46 cm (18.1")
Blouse: Height: 49 cm (19.2") Top Width: 30 cm (11.8") Bottom Width: 54 cm (21.2")
Weave: Banarasi, Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh
Design: Floral with light minakari jaal
Technique: Handwoven with Jacquard
Occasion/Purpose: Stage performance
Circa: 2000s
Remarks: This appears to be an unfinished costume assignment to have belonged to the eminent Kathak dancer, Sitara Devi
Research and documentation done by Radhikaraje Gaekwad in collaboration with Maharaja Fatesingh Museum Vadodara with inputs by Rashmi & Prashant Tapadia, Pune.
